Moving across the Meseta Central (Part II)

22 May 2026

Villalcázar de Sirga

This is an isolated town between Frómista and Carrión de los Condes. Despite its location, the town has played a significant role in the history of the Camino. In the Catedral are two statues to the Virgin.

The Virgen Blanca is located in the main altar of the Cathedral. It may be that this is the statue from the 13th century that inspired Alfonso X, the Wise, to write some of his Cantigas (like those written to the Virgen del Manzano in Castrojeriz). Another possible candidate for the poems is one that is called the Virgen de las Cantigas that is located in the Capilla de Santiago (below).

The Capilla de Santiago was built in the 14th century. Within its walls are three Gothic tombs that belonged to Inés de Guevara, the second wife of Felipe de Castilla y Swabia (from the 13th century), the tomb of Felipe de Castilla y Swabia, the brother of Alfonso X, the Wise (13th century) and at the back of the chapel is the tomb of Juan de Pereira, a knight after the Order of Santiago that dates from the 14th century.

Doña Inés's tomb sits up front and is a beautifully details, polychromatic work that represents the death of the infanta surrounded by mourners...

The tomb of her husband, Felipe, sits behind her's and likewise represents his internment surrounded by mourners. He holds a sword in one hand and in the other a falcon. He carries the sword in an inverted position that symbolizes otherworldliness and mourning. 

While we were there we had a very enlightening chat with Mariché, the lady who cares for the Cathedral. She took us over to a place on the floor with a covering...

She explained that in the Middle Ages the Knights Templar would draw water from this small well for their horses. She said the well continues to flow under the floor and that the water has healing properties. She says that pilgrims will either stand over the well or sit on the edge of the nearby columns to get relief from the heat and pains of walking. Jannette and I sat there for a few minutes and the coolness of the space did provide some relief. Legend or truth, I don't know. But I will say that I felt better after sitting there for a few minutes.    

Carrión de los Condes

This town has a fascinating little church: Iglesia de Santiago. The church is preserved as a museum. The façade is its real jewel. The archivolt holds the figures that feature the professions that were known to be practiced in the town during the 12th century.

Some of those figures are:

(left to right) a blacksmith with his bellows, perhaps a Jewish because of the hat that he wears and the curls that fall on each side of his face; a copyist or notary; a monk holding a book.

(Left to right) an alchemist; a shoemaker cutting leather; a potter or coiner

(left to right) a man working an anvil; two warriors fighting with sword and shield.

(left to right) a mourner; a vihuelist; a contortionist dancer; a tailor

This design is not common on churches and provides an intriguing view into medieval life and the relationship between Christians and Jews.

The capitals on the jambs that flank the doors also provide an important view into the way that early Christians were taught to understand redemption and salvation. 

The right capital depicts the punishment of the sinner whose body, after being buried, is taken out of the tomb, leaving him naked, a symbol of shame. His nakedness also suggests his defenselessness to the tortures that he must suffer because of his sinfulness. The two dogs embody the constant torture that he must endure without relief, being continually devoured.

The capital to the left is believed to symbolize good. In it you see a lion with its jaws agape, a symbol of the demon that tries to access the Soul of the Just man who is protected by two characters who with one hand scare away the evil beast. Another character pulls at the Soul of the Just by the hair. On the lateral side of the capital, the lion has already closed its jaws, the Soul of the Just is still protected by the angels and in its hands there is a book.

23 MAY 2026

Today was a long and strenuous hike. Though it was only 14 miles (more or less), the heat that has been pummeling us was difficult. Today we made it to the halfway mark (a new marker).

380 kilometers (236.121 miles)

24 MAY 2026

Today is Sunday and we spent the day resting in Terradillos. We had a lovely meeting with the students and I had a "fireside" where we talked about "Ojos peregrinos" by padre Bernardo and some pieces by Antonio Machado that talk about choosing paths in life.

25 MAY 2026

Today we made the long hike (15+ miles) across flat, treeless landscape in temperatures in the mid-80s. It may not seem like a challenge, but it was an act of endurance. 

Along the way we passed through a second mid-point marker (the more traditional one) near Sahagún...

Sahagún has a long and rich history. It is unique in this area because of the Romanesque-Mudéjar architecture found in the town's churches. Below is the Iglesia de San Tirso. The lower part of the apse is Romanesque, evidenced by the white blocks. The remainder is a typical brick structure characteristic of the Mudéjar style...

This church dates from 1170 and was completed between 1180 and 1190.

26-27 MAY 2026

The first day we walked from Bercianos del Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas (17.92 miles). In 2023 and 2025, then this year we have met up with the older gentleman just outside of El Burgo Ranero. I haven't any idea how old he is, but we have met up with him along the Camino, with him walking on the parallel road. What is amazing is that he is completely blind. He holds a stick that he runs along the edge of the road. His footsteps are probably only about 6 or 7 inches per stride; he is persistent and usually goes a few kilometers outside of town. 

The second day was from Mansilla de las Mulas to León (15.9 miles). Today was even flatter and hotter than the previous. There are few, if any, facilities along the way and very little shade. We have to carry water and snacks.