Starting at Burgos we begin the trek across the Meseta Central. This area is filled with large stretches of farmland and at times becomes very flat. The weather has become hotter and less tolerable, but we keep moving forward. Here are some of the places and things that we saw and experienced.
19 MAY 2026
Rabé de las Calzadas:
In this town is a small chapel that is cared for by the Sisters of Charity.
These sisters spend their days serving children, especially those who are in difficult situations. This year we met up with sor Teresa who Jannette and I had met in 2023. She is a lovely woman who has dedicated her life to serving others and to responding to their needs.
Hornillos del Camino:
This is a dusty little town with little to see or do. Clearly, not my favorite stop along the way. However, if you look carefully at the door lintels as you leave town you will see one that was salvaged (at some point) from a Visigothic tomb from around the 5th century.
20 MAY 2026
Today we woke up to fog. It was very nice to walk for a time in cooler weather.
Moving past Hontanos we came across an abundance of red poppies that covered the hills. It was a beautiful sight. The tower is the remains of a church and monastery that sits in the middle of a wheat field.
It was hard to capture but you can see the red poppies lining the Camino as we moved further towards the ruins of the Monasterio de San Antón.
Monasterio de San Antón:
The ruins of the Monasterio de San Antón are majestic. Once it was an active site along the pilgrimage route. Sadly, at the beginning of the 19th century a liberal Spanish government began a process where they confiscated properties belonging to the Catholic church. They would then sell them to the highest bidder. Most of these properties fell into ruin and simply disappeared. You will notice that a road passes under an arch that once connected the church to the monastery. This is where the original Camino passed. Under the roof of the arch you will find two niches...
... it was here in the Middle Ages that monks would leave bread and wine for the pilgrims making their way along the trail.
Castrojeríz
As you enter Castrojeríz you pass the Colegiata de Santa María del Manzano. It is best known for the statue of the Virgin that inspired Alfonso X, the Wise (1221-1284) to compose Cantigas (or poems) that celebrated miracles that were performed here.
The arial photo of the Colegiata was taken from the castle, that dates to the 8th century, that sits high on the hill above the city.
While we were visiting the Colegiata de Santa María del Manzano, I started to chat with the caretaker. I mentioned to him that last year Jannette and I had visited another church, the Iglesia de San Juan, that is located on the opposite end of town. I told him how much we had wanted to see its unique, small, square cloister. He looked at me and said, "Only two people have a key; the priest and me." He then offered to meet us at the church at exactly 3:15 pm and take us on a tour. It was a wonderful experience. The cloister isn't fabulously decorated, but does reflect the influences of the first Romanesque styles of the 13th century. This was a rare blessing given that this part of the church is not open to the public.
21 MAY 2026
On the road to Frómista
Frequently along the Camino we come across scenes that can't be ignored. Here an older gentleman (center) sits keeping watch over his little flock of sheep with his donkey grazing behind him. He just sat their quietly. It reminded me of our responsibility to care for others no matter how insignificant the task may seem.
Shortly after leaving Castrojeriz we had to climb a steep, hill mountain. Once on the top, and having crossed the its breadth, we looked down into the valley on the opposite side. The path you see to the left is at an 8% grade. As you might expect, the descent was a little hard on the knees!
When we arrived at the hotel in Frómista were greeted by our friend, Laura. We have known her since 2022. She holds a special place in my heart. In 2022 we biked across the Meseta Central. The first day was a grueling 43 (more or less) miles. Along the way I got very sick. By the time Jannette and I arrived in Frómista all the restaurants and stores were closed. Somehow, Laura managed to find a small container of yogurt that she gave to Jannete to take to me. That little bit of sustenance made a big difference. This experience has become a lesson is how the small actions, perhaps perceived as insignificant, can have a deep impact on the life of another person. Sometime we just have to act using what resources we may have to bless and assist others.
In the Iglesia de San Martin de Tours de Frómista there are other important life lessons to be learned.
At one door are main door on the south side are two columns. They sit opposite one another. To the left is the capital that depicts the ills of Contention:
Two men fight while on either side others approach with drawn swords and shields. Just above the two men is the head of a lion, here representing a demon. He oversees and, perhaps, encourages the contention between the two men. On one side is a woman sobbing. Note that this capital is to the left of those entering the church (left being a negative location). Sitting opposite this capital, on the right side, is one that represents Resolution:
Here two men embrace. Note the excessive number of hands. This detail suggests that peace and harmony come when people reach out to one another. Flanking the men in the embrace are two figure holding walking sticks in the shape of the Tau (a T-shape). The tau symbolized healing. On the sides of the capital are figures embracing.
The third capital is located at the north doors. The topic comes from the fable of the Crow and the Fox.
This story is related in the Book of Good Love by Juan Ruíz, Arcipreste de Hita in 1330. The tale is used as a reminder of the vanity and pride that enters to corrupt monastic life (and by extension society).
"One day, it seems, a hungry fox, while prowling ill at ease,
Beheld an inky crow who perched above him in the trees,
And held within his bill a goodly piece of fragrant cheese;
Straightway with flattery began the fox this crafty wheeze.
'Oh most aristocratic crow, oh handsome, knightly don,
Your white and lordly garb proclaims your kinship with the swan;
Much sweeter than all other birds you sing orison,
Indeed, for just one song of yours I'd give a score anon.
'Your voice the golondrina cannot match, nor popinjay,
Nor even still the nightingale, nor thrus, nor skylark gay --
Oh how a song of your would soothe my aching heart today;
You need only to open your mouth to drive my grief away.'
The crow was quite convinced at last that by his raucous hawking
He might give pleasure to the world and every creature walking.
He thought that his vociferous interminable squawking
Delighted people moe than any kind of chant or talking.
He therefore opened wide his mouth and started saying, 'Caw,'
When lo, the tasty bit of cheese slipped downward from his jaw.
The fox devoured it suddenly and laughed a long, 'Haw, haw!'
Which left the injured crow with naught but rancor in his craw.
False pride, vain glory, hollow honors, smiles that cheat and charm
and Yeild but sadness, grief, and woe, and work no end of harm.
How many people think the owner really guards the farm,
Whereas it's just his scarecrow which produces the alarm.
One never can with certainty rely on flattery sweet
Because such rations always yield a bitterness complete.
That sin you'd have me do is not for any nun discreet,
And nuns who are unchaste are worse than filthy rotten meat."
(Translation by Elisha Kent Kane).
What seems particularly important is the figure on the left corner that holds its tongue; perhaps a reminder to take care when speaking; avoiding vain words.
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